As many of you will already know, the waters of Puerto Galera are famous for dive sites with amazing opportunities for macro photography (close-up, usually very small subjects). In this guide we aim to provide you with some helpful advice on the preparation for, and shooting of, excellent underwater macro shots.
Choosing your macro subject
Before you even get in the water, you should do some research about how to plan getting some great macros. Talk to some of the dive guides about which sites may provide you with the best opportunities. What sort of depth are these sites at? What kind of current and visibility can you expect? See if it’s possible to see some photographs already taken at these sites, and get some idea of what subjects are producing the best results. If you already have some idea of what sort of lighting and composition works best, your task will be far easier when you encounter the subject you wish to photograph.
Once you enter the water, you should have an idea of what it is you are looking for, and in what sort of habitats to be looking. Should another photographer already be shooting something you want to photograph, remember your manners, and keep some distance away and take care not to stir up any silt. If you can get in the photographer’s line of sight he/she will know you are interested in photographing that subject.
When to Shoot
Once you have found a subject you wish to shoot, you need to think about the composition and the moment at which you want to shoot. Take a moment to observe your subject to see if it is exhibiting any behaviour. Will it change position/posture/colour? Is is likely to ambush another animal? I little bit of patience while observing your subject will pay off great dividends if you know when will be the best moment to capture your image.
Composition, Lighting, and Focus
There are 6 things to keep in mind when looking for that perfect macro shot: Composition, Lighting, Background, Focus, Exposure and Depth of Field.
- Composition
Try to get as low as possible without stirring up silt, and start evaluating different compositions. Do you want a head-on shot? Full frame? Diagonal? Or even from underneath? Getting a good composition can often be the most difficult part; not only will you need to decide on which angle has the most aesthetic appeal, but your skills as a diver will also be put to the test. Controlling your body position and buoyancy is crucial. No hanging onto reefs!
- Lighting (Strobe position)
Think about your strobe position based on the texture of the subject, and the water visibility. What lighting is going to produce the best results? Front, side or back lighting? Do you need to worry about backscatter (strobe light reflecting on particles in the water, causing ‘orbs’) Do you want to position your strobes for a black background? Most macro photographers will have diffusers on their strobes, giving the light a softer look that looks often looks better in macros.
- Background
Your background can make or break your shot. Think about the colour: Black, blue or green? Do you want it in focus or blurred? Is there an interesting object nearby that can be incorporated in the background? Is it possible to carefully move the subject to a better background without stressing the subject? Sometimes a lembeh stick can be used to carefully reposition crabs or shrimps. Don’t use your dive gloves, they may injure or stick to the subject. Do not risk injuring a subject or causing it to flee its habitat just to get the shot you want.
- Focus
Usually you will want to focus on the eyes or rhinophores. Lock the focus on them and recompose your shot. If your housing/camera allows it, you may wish to switch to a continuous focusing mode, which will allow you to shoot without the camera “locking” focus. This can be very helpful when shooting supermacro, especially if you or your subject are moving.
- Exposure
You will need to check your display and/or histogram to ensure a proper exposure. If you are using a TTL Converter (automatically sets the exposure of your strobes when they fire) you will almost always have a proper exposure, but sometimes you may need to adjust it up or down. If you are shooting manual, you’ll adjust your strobe power up or down. A TTL converter is a big help in shooting macro, and you really won’t need to worry about exposure most of the time. Shooting macro without a TTL can be a big disadvantage.
- Depth of Field
Closely related to the background; How much DOF do you need, or want, for the composition you have chosen? Do you want a blurred or sharp background? Is the ambient light so strong I need a small aperture to help block it out? (Common in clear, shallow water at mid-day). All these factors will help you determine the proper f-stop to use for the shot. Remember – there is no best F-stop for macro photography. A large aperture (small f-stop) will blur the background, and a small aperture will bring more of the background into focus.
After The Shot
If there is another photographer waiting for the subject, show them exactly where the subject is before leaving the scene. Be careful that you don’t loose the location of a subject; you can plant your lembeh stick next to the subject, so you can retrieve another photographer and bring them to the exact location. Your lembeh stick can also be used to stick in the ground when a current is sweeping you towards another dive taking a photograph. This way you can stay out of the way without kicking up silt.
We hope you found this article useful and informative. Feel free to leave any comments or questions below.
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